With a $38 10" sub or a $45 12" sub, you'll be really lucky if it can actually handle 150 watts RMS. The specifications listed for cheap subs by noname importers simply can't be believed.
When comparing and selecting an amplifier and subwoofer(s), there are 2 parameters that need to be matched. These are 1) Impedance; and 2) RMS continuous power. To properly match the impedance you need to know the individual voice coil impedances, the number of voice coils, and the final number of subs that will be installed. You want the final connection to present the lowest impedance into which the amp can be safely operated. Operating into a lower impedance than the amp is rated to handle will often result in the amp going into "protection" mode and even worse, damaging the amp internally. Operation into a higher impedance is OK, but the power will be reduced. For example, an amp will deliver twice the power into a 2 ohm load than it will into a 4 ohm load.
There are different ways to rate a subwoofer's power handling capabilities. But, the ONLY meaningful measurement to consider is continuous RMS watts. 2,000 watts "peak" is an absolutely worthless rating. The subwoofer may actually be able to handle 2,000 watts for 5 or 10 milliseconds. Connecting it to an amplifier that outputs 250 continuous watts RMS and playing it for an hour may very likely burn up the voice coil(s) and cause permanent damage. But a subwoofer rated to handle 250 continuous watts RMS can be safely connected to the same amp and played all day, month after month, with no damage or degradation in sound quality.
Yet manufacturers frequently market substandard products with high 'peak' ratings. Most are cheap flea-market brands that produce more noise and distortion than good accurate bass. It's better to pay a little more for a subwoofer that will last longer and sound better.
If the subs are single voice coil and 4 ohms, you can only wire them to present a final impedance of 2 ohms (parallel) or 8 ohms (series). The pair cannot present a final load of 4 ohms.
For a few bucks more, you can purchase good quality, good sounding, entry level subs. For example, these Alpine Type E's will be playing long after your $39 sub has burned up. And even better, they will sound pretty good.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWE1043/Alpine-SWE-1043.html?tp=111
The 12" versions are only $11 more.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWE1243/Alpine-SWE-1243.html?tp=111
Another choice for a decent entry level sub would be Rockford-Fosgate. This 10" is only $50.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17889_Rockford+Fosgate+PRIME+R1S410.html
The 12" version is another $10:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17890_Rockford+Fosgate+PRIME+R1S412.html