my car sound set up my amps an subs?

Question

ok i have 4 pioneer spl there 3000 watts each one 1000watts rms im running 2 3000 mono block power acoustic amps with a cap an extra battery i have a kenwood kvt 512 indash an i have 4 6x9 an 4 6 1/2 s an 6 tweeters im runing a 1800 watt power acoustic amp wit dem is dat a good set up or is there sumthing wrong its in a grand prix 05 im getting it put in in da morning but i need to know how u guys think it wud sound eed back plz

Answer 1

sounds like a serious setup

if i was going to go that far i would pick a better brand (more reliable, better sound quality and not over rated (makes the advertised RMS wattage))





when it comes to car audio nine times out of ten you get what you pay for- and you need to look for CEA-compliant brands which means that the amps have been tested and produce or exceed the advertised RMS wattage with minimum distortion and the subs can handle their advertised RMS wattage also (distortion is the main cause of speaker damage over time)

here are the top CEA-compliant brands

Alpine (highly recommend)

Bazooka (don't like their subs)

Blaupunkt (don't like their subs)

Clarion

Eclipse

Infinity (highly recommend)

JBL

JL Audio (very good but over priced)

JVC

Kenwood (don't like their subs)

Kicker (the best in my opinion)

Lightning Audio (have not heard their subs)

MTX (highly recommend)

Orion

Pioneer

Polk Audio (highly recommend)

PPI

Rockford Fosgate (highly recommend)

Sony (don't like their subs)



you want an amp that puts out its advertised RMS wattage and speakers that can handle their rated RMS wattage also because if not you could damge the amp, speakers or both-- not to mention distortion is the main cause of speaker damage over time and with cheap stuff thats what you get



its IMPORTANT to know the "REAL" RMS wattage pushing/handling specs of your equipment because if you dont its IMPOSSIBLE to properly match

If you send too much power to your sub, you risk damaging it. The cone of the speaker and the mechanical parts that make it move may break under the stress. Surprisingly, too little power can also damage your subwoofer — in fact, it's actually more common than damage caused by overpowering.

When the volume is turned up and the amp doesn't have enough power, the signal becomes distorted, or "clipped." This distorted signal can cause parts of the speaker to overheat, warp and melt. Not good!

You don't have to match speaker and amp wattages exactly. An amp with a higher output than the speaker's rating won't necessarily damage the speaker — just turn the amp down a bit if you hear distortion from the sub and don't run the speaker at extremely loud volumes for lengthy periods. Likewise, you'll be OK with a lower powered amp if you keep the volume down and don't feed a distorted signal to the sub

you will send the amp into clipping

Clipping

Clipping occurs when an amplifier is asked to deliver more current to a speaker than the amp is capable of doing. When an amplifier clips, it literally cuts off the tops and bottoms of the musical waveforms that it's trying to reproduce, thus the term. This introduces a huge amount of distortion into the output signal. Clipping can be heard as a crunching sound on musical peaks.

that causes distorted sound which will damage your subs



info needed to PROPERLY match amps and subs

the subs voice coil setup (DVC or SVC)

the subs impedance (ohms)

the final impedance at the amp (how the subs are wired)

the number of subs

the subs RMS (continuous) wattage

or

the model numbers

Answer 2

the respond on your question lays in particular on your funds, which will desire to contain installation and upload-ons required for the deploy. the way a sub-bass gadget works is as follows. Your head unit, despite if OEM or aftermarket, will feed a sign to the amplifier. The amplifier will sparkling that sign and in straight forward terms enable sub-bass frequencies to be "amplified" which you hear for the duration of the subwoofer speaker. in case you choose insane bass, you choose the RMS Watt ingredient of each ingredient (the amplifier and the subwoofer speaker) to be extremely comparable and extreme, around six hundred+, forget with reference to the Max Watt ingredient. it is the place funds is presented in place, as you will see. i prefer to advise getting 2 12" in twin Voice Coil (DVC) subwoofers that are 4 ohms each Voice Coil. My suggestion is going with SoloBaric X. Then get a ported field, stated for those audio gadget in straight forward terms, that ought to in good shape interior your trunk. you need to get a sealed field, yet once you do the field would be lots greater then a ported field. degree your trunk, it extremely is a determining ingredient. Then i prefer to advise wiring the subs in parallel so which you have the 4 ohms DVC dropped to 2 ohms , then those 2 subs under pressure in parallel so which you have an extremely final a million ohm Load. it is extremely considerable because of the fact you choose an amp that could manage a a million ohm load, so do your analyze. Get a Mono-Block Amplifier it extremely is a million ohm reliable and its RMS is greater then that of the two subs, rule of thumb, double if obtainable, yet a minimum of 25% extra. Key products to word: you do no longer choose an oem radio except you choose finished administration of the bass. Get a minimum 4 gauge amp kit ( i prefer to advise 2 for the above, yet 4 in case you in straight forward terms making use of a million sub) Set the Amplifier's objective Voltage (see its proprietor's handbook or youtube) If the lights furnishings dim or motor vehicle's RPM's drop in the time of a heavy bass music, get a capacitor or 2nd batter close to the gadget with a battery isolator attempt to dynamat the trunk if obtainable good success and that i'm hoping i grew to become into able that may well be useful you.

Answer 3

good reply by inktownl, but I have to comment it's funny all those brands have been bought, sold, whored out, rebuilt.... is anything as good as it used to be?

Alpine is still Alpine, for a long time some of the best HU's but a lot of their amps used to suck.. (early 90's)

Several of those brands used to be the best, like Orion and PPI, they were bought by DEI, and they could have done worse but aren't what they were. (don't get me started on what thay did to my favorite, a/d/s- I still have a p840, one of the best amps made)

They used to say "friends don't let friends use Jap amps" when Phoenix Gold, Rockford Fosgate, Orion, Zapco (remember the system 150 3 pc amps?) and a/d/s ruled.

Now it's all Chinese. Some of it is okay.

The upside is if you are happy with "okay" equipment it's hella cheap.



Oh yeah. Soundstream. THEY KILLED IT.