Much Help Needed - car audio set-up?

Question

Hi all,
I have a Pioneer Premier 12" TS-W3001D4 sub and My final intention is to lean towards having a clear, yet still powerful SQ type set-up.
* Peak: 3000 watts
* RMS: 1000 watts
# Impedance: Dual 4 ohms

Everything else is factory/stock

*I have a wooden home-made dual sealed box that I might cut down to a single, but may end up looking into a custom-made sealed box in the future. What are the Pros/Cons of Wood vs. fiberglass/MDF/other materials please. & would a flared port make much diff. in sound quality or output?

*Also looking for the right amp to power the sub (mono block probably). What would match up well with my sub?

*Where would a sound dampener be desired besides doors and maybe trunk. (basically speaking; I don't necessarily want to go through the trouble of ripping out all the interior to slap it around the whole car)

*recommendations for great mids and tweeters are welcome as well
*Heard something about running them in mono vs stereo. Should I even bother worrying about that?
*Lastly if anyone has any recommendations for a capacitor that would be great. I've killed two batteries from just the knocking the stock system too much. Hi-Fi w/o its own power source would be suicide.

*forgot to add that I have an '05 Honda Accord EX coupe.

Thx in advance to all who answer

Answer 1

The guy above me is right with everything so I'll just give you advice on the amp. I also own a ts-w3002d2 (newer version with dual 2 ohms). I have a kenwood kac-9401d monoblock amp. It is perfect for the sub. The specs:



1800 watts peak

900 watts rms at 1 ohm

900 watts rms at 2 ohms

500 watts rms at 4 ohms



You should be able to wire the coils in parallel to get 2 ohms final impedence. Kenwoods are cea-2006 compliant so they will put out 900 rms. This is perfect for a sub that is 1000 rms. you can get one on ebay for about $170 including shipping. Have fun and hope this helps.

Answer 2

OK---lets go down the line here



MDF is medium density fiberboard. Its the typical wood used in a sub box. Fiberglass is strong, but thats more for super-custom jobs where odd shapes are needed. A port will increase the output of the sub. Contrary to all the myths perpetuated here, a ported box can have EXCELLENT sound quality if built and tuned correctly. You have a powerful sub, Try to use 1 inch MDF if possible. Try to stay away from OSB (oriented strand board) or plywood if possible.



As for the amp, a monoblock is fine! Look for an amp that makes around 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms mono, give or take a few hundred. You want an amp that makes max power at 2 ohms, to match your dual 4 ohm sub (which will be wired in parallel to present a 2 ohm load to the amp). Forget flea market brands and "peak" and "max" power.



Using dynmat or alternatives is a good idea, especially on the doors and trunk. Not necessary for the WHOLE car, it adds a LOT of weight. You can do it, but honestly its not worth it for a vehicle thats not a competition vehicle.



As for mids/tweets, there are a variety of name brands out there that will perform fine. Although, majority of component sets would like to see power from an amplifier, not just a stock radio. They wont be coming even close to full potential. Dont bother worrying about mono/stereo, well, of course they should be played in stereo but not many amps or cd players have the option anymore.



A cap wont hurt anything, but its a band aid... Upgrade the "big three" (do a google search) and you should be ok. If you want to play your stereo with the car off a lot, yes, thats not idea for the batteries.

Answer 3

you could fairly combination and journey which ever type you desire. yet Kenwood is a terrific high quality yet extremely costly. My popular is Rockford & Fosgate. they are costly too yet determine you examine the two one in each of them out!