Question:
Done testing car stereo 3000 watts at 2 ohm, with 40F Caps mounted too. Why have my lights stopped blinking?
kaeksen
2011-12-13 05:05:36 UTC
Hehe...
I think its of outmost importance to have big caps if you have little alternator and battery (45A alt, 45A battery)
300A in total stereo.
What you think?
Can yahoo answer users with stereo learn from my experience, def yes.
Five answers:
N2Audio
2011-12-13 10:42:59 UTC
I'd be curious to know specifically what amp and subs you're dealing with.



I'm sure you're going on the assumption that you've taken all the stress off the alt and placed it on the caps. That's not at all the case.

The alt IS the source. It's the component in the system with the highest potential voltage. Adding all the batteries and/or capacitors you can fit in the system won't change that.



You've loaded the alt down to the point where it's fighting a losing battle.



Without the caps - when the amp's demand is high the alt is maxed out, and the car's voltage quickly sags to battery voltage. When the amp's demand is low, the alt actually has a chance to recover, voltage spikes back up to 14v or so, seen in a brightening of the lights.



now - with all the capacitors to charge -- once the bass hits, the alt maxes out, just like without them. Voltage sags somewhat slower to batt voltage as the caps discharge. With 40F it might take a few cycles to get to 12-12.5v, but it will get there.

When the bass note stops, the alt begins attempting to charge the caps and the battery, but eventually it comes up short. Voltage doesn't recover to 14v. Next bass note, alt is already maxed out, voltage is already at or near battery voltage -- you see no dimming.



So what you think is a problem solved is actually just a problem covered up, but now slightly worse since the high points of voltage aren't as high as they were before, and the low points are steadily getting lower.



The fact remains, the alt is being severely stressed. The case is probably too hot to touch, while the system's playing, and every minute you play the system at high volume is one minute closer to a failed alt.



Good luck with that.
dj
2011-12-13 09:24:48 UTC
just because you think they are awesome and work doesnt mean they do. i can get someones lights to stop "blinking" by doing the right upgrades such as the big 3, high output alt, and an extra battery. every system i have seen with a high output alt doesnt need a capacitor even if their lights "blink" and the ones i have seen with a capacitor have a stock alt and their voltage is a volt below the cars voltage and then they have voltage drop, which is why they keep frying amps. i rather say dont get a capacitor and keep the amp longer, especially since my amp cost way more than some bullshit cap. and ha just because a car audio dealer is "envious" of your system doesnt mean ****, people lie a lot. and you said it all when you said that youre a noob, so exactly youre a noob so you dont know as much as probably half the people on here, so dont act like you do.... AND you claim to have an SQ set up so you probably dont have a ton of bass anyway so you probably dont have amps that pull a ton from your car.
airforceyooper
2011-12-13 05:35:55 UTC
You're test conditions are probably flawed like the video people like to post of that kids before and after the cap where he used different music with the cap than he did without the cap. The music he used with the cap had an obvious decrese in bass compared to the music without the cap.



If you set out to try to prove something, chances are you will. At least in your own mind. However, physics has yet to be beat by anybody.



Perhaps your lights stopped blinking because you turned your hazards off. ;) lol.





edit 3: No, actually I don't have any problems with my system. Nor any of the systems I've install in my customer's cars for the past 20 years. What is upsetting is your ignorance and that you're allowed to spread it through this medium. I come here to try to help people and you come here to make their situation worse.



seriously though, caps don't help. At 40 farad you're getting closer to a usable amount though, but rather than spend that much money on a cap, you'd be further ahead to have bought a second battery instead.



sorry dude, but you're as retarded as the Josh guy. It's not your fault, but you guys are really doing the folks on here an injustice by toting some BS you think is true only because you want to believe it is. Just admit you dropped out of the 8th grade 15 years ago because you thought you were too smart for school and you now work at the BK Lounge because you're just too damn smart for anybody else to hire.



People come on this thing to get real reliable information. Not your ignorance. You come here to tote your BS becuase you've been laughed off every car audio forum you've been on. lol. Pitiful, but true. Leave the advice giving to the professionals son. Take your BS to your backyard and grill up some more skunk.
jeffnjess4
2011-12-13 07:02:08 UTC
car audio dealer in your area must be a joke if he is envious of your system. and the only cap that would probably help at all is a batcap due to the fact that they hold a battery also.but not enough to stop dimming from a system that supposedly pulls 300 amps when ya only rollin w/ a 45amp alt... but you will find your car not starting down the road soon enough. glad you enjoy your first system.





wait a second... i just figured it out.. you are running a pyle amp stating 3000 watts at 2 ohms but it only has 20 amp worth of fuses... man i thought i was missin somethin.
?
2011-12-13 07:27:36 UTC
a 40 farad cap,without an upgrade to your charging system.your stock alternator will be working 24/7 to keep power in that trash can you have for a capacitor.i must agree with mr air force you are truly lost.if you keep making your charging system/alternator work this hard you will be buying a new one soon,this time get a 200 amp alternator,and some heavier gauge wiring to ground it and to power it.you should be running 1/0 gauge wiring to the cap with a distribution block hooked to the same size wire coming of the pos post on the cap then hook a distribution block to that wire and down size wiring from there.in the long run you will be saving nothing.


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