If you got the $$$ to spend....
I'd say get the JBL a6000GTi Crown amp...
here is the specs for it...
from JBLs website these ratings are RMS
Output Power at 14.4V and â¤1% THD+N (CEA-2006):
2 x 2600W @ 4 ohms
1 x 8110W @ 4 ohms
1 x 7400W @ 1 ohm
S/N Ratio: 65dBA (1 Watt, 4 ohms)
Effective Damping Factor: 6.39 @ 4 ohms
Freq. Response: 10Hz â¼ 270Hz (-3dB)
Fuse: 600A internal (external 500A minimum)
Dimensions: 29.38" x 23" x 6.5" (74.6cm x 58.4cm x 16.5cm)
Weight: 88 lb. (40 kg.)
This mono amplifier has +/-165 Volt DC rails that power two 3 KW BCA (balanced current amplifier) half-bridges.
This allows three modes of operation:
1. Two high-voltage amps each driving 2-4 ohms with 160V+ peaks.
2. A single bridged output driving 2-4 ohms with 320V+ peaks.
3. A single paralleled output driving 1-2 Ohms with 160V+ peaks (patented).
6000-Watt Balanced-Current Subwoofer Amplifier With Current Servos.
Built-in variable electronic crossover with selectable slope rate.
Dynamic Bass Optimization (DBO) - This provides variable filtering with adjustable "Q" below 100Hz, far beyond conventional "Bass Q" circuits, by allowing the low-frequency output to be optimized for specific subwoofer applications. Frequencies below an enclosure's tuning frequency can be attenuated, preventing damage to the subwoofer and allowing the amplifier's power to be better utilized.
Variable phase control
Full-range preamp outputs - In the event that multiple amplifiers are used in an application, this feature allows for streamlined system hookup. No high-loss Y-adapters or splitters needed.
This amp has been discontinued...When it first came out, it retailed for $6,000.
If you can get this amp...it would be AWESOME!!!!
Once you got it, one problem...placement. This is the BIGGEST amp ever made...IMO
It is 29.38" x 23" x 6.5" (74.6cm x 58.4cm x 16.5cm) and weighs 88 lb. (40 kg.).
Just thought I wanted to share this info...
Check these sites out...it is a good reference.
http://www.bcae1.com/
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/rftech.asp
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198477
http://www.termpro.com/articles/articles.html#How
- Also check this out http://www.youtube.com and all related videos...Look for the guy in the blue collared shirt. Type “car audio systems” in the search engine. He gives a lot of very good info.
If your headlight dims with the bass notes, the “BIG 3” might work. If not an H.O. alternator will be needed, or else be prepared to pour a lot of $$$ for batteries.
This site explains the "BIG 3" upgrades.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1
I've designed my car for SQ (Sound Quality) not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) my imaging is very good. The bass sounds as if it is up front and my 12 inch sub (picture as shown) in the trunk. I LOVE how it all worked out.
GOOD LUCK and have fun…
List of items for my ride:
Head Unit: Alpine DVA - 9861
Processor(s):
- EpiCenter (by: Audio Control)
- Apex (by: Kove Audio)
- EQ (by: Clarion - EQS746)
Amp: JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 (constant 800 watts)
Cap: One Rockford Fosgate1 farad Cap
Front: MB Quart 216
Rear: Boston Acoustics (6x9) SX65
Sub: 1 Eclipse 12" Alum. 4 ohm DVC (Dual Voice Coil)
Battery: DieHard AGM Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT
Alternator: 220amp by: PowerBastard.com
1/0 ga wire to D-block
Using a dual fused D-block in the engine bay
- ANL 200 amp fuse (used for H.O. Alternator)
- ANL 300 amp fuse (used for power wire to amp)
- Hyper Ground System (by: Sun Automobile U.S.A. Inc.)
- “BIG 3” upgrade